| Next time I'm in Cairo... |
[4th March 2009|11:49 am] |
I mentioned on ![[info]](http://l-stat.livejournal.com/img/userinfo.gif) diva_c's lj that it's never too early to start a Cairo Shopping List. So I thought I'd continue it here...
Dancey stuff- A Hanan 2-piece
- Asking Eman & Hoda do something amazing with the assuit, though that might wait a while.
- Something in teal or turquoise, since these colours are lacking from my costume wardrobe
- A proper Melaya dress
Other stuff- More shoes (sometime, I'm going to have to post a pic of the amazing denim & diamante porn-star shoes I got last time)
- Handbags, the blingy sort that a dancer *ought* to have
- Maybe a skirt or two
Any suggestions? |
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| Cairo Diary Day 9 - Bye bye Cairo |
[2nd April 2008|09:13 pm] |
This morning at breakfast, the tv was showing an old b/w movie, and all of a sudden I realised that the slavegirl dancing in somebody’s dream sequence was Nagua Fouad- the gap-toothed smile, the bum sticking out, the feet. There was no-one else it could be! One of the cafeteria ladies went on to change channels later, and left it on a clip of Naima Akif, the one where there’s the trick photography and she’s dancing in an assuit dress on one side of the screen, and dressed up as a man on the other… So it was dance morning. And then there was a brief clip of Abdel Halim.
One last burst of shopping- cakes for the office, and one last pair of shoes. These ones are sensible work-type shoes, because they're in brown and it's hard to get nice brown shoes in England at the moment.
Going home now...
Things I didn’t buy:
- man’s galabiya
- cover up of any description
- khaligi dress (they were E£250 at Mahmoud’s, which is a bit pricey, though not outrageous really, but I didn’t want one enough)
- borro
- jewellery (apart from the enormous earrings)
- any presents for anyone else
- a handbag (definitely on my list for next time I’m here)
Things I did buy:
- 4 pairs of shoes
- 3 costumes
- 9 hipscarves, of which I can sell 4 or 5 quite happily. I definitely want to keep the white, hunter green, red ones. The rest I don’t mind selling, or keeping if they don’t sell.
- 3 pairs khul-khal
- 2 pairs of earrings
- a hat
- a skirt
- cakes for the offices
So far so good... Got to Vienna in good time & I’m now seated on the plane to London, and we’re all boarded in good time for takeoff. |
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| Cairo Diary Day 8 - Party Night |
[2nd April 2008|09:06 pm] |
Last full day. Today was the fellucca trip, after a nice long lie-in! The weather was very close, and when we got to the fellucca place, there wasn’t enough wind for the sail, so we went out in the motorboat instead. It was very relaxing and enjoyable, after such a hectic day & such a late evening the night before. The pollution haze was heavy and it was not as clear & beautiful as it’s been earlier this week.
As we got back to the mooring place, the wind was starting to rise, and Artemisia, Rose, Noella & Katerin & I went to the Grand Hyatt, for a bite of lunch in a bit more luxury. We were on the terrace & it really did get very windy. They were moving people indoors and at one point the big table parasols, which are all on very heavy, solid bases, blew over and fell onto tables. Lots of Crash Tinkle Tinkle noises!
After that, it was back to the hotel. We had an appointment at Eman’s at 5, but that still left me about an hour’s shoe shopping time. I’d seen some pairs made with denim that I really wanted. I found a pair in a shop on Sharia Talaat Harb, but no reduction for two pairs (there was another pair that was quite cute). I am now the proud possessor of a pair of seriously pornstar shoes. They’re basically follow me home & **** me shoes. And they are covered in jewels. I do like!
At Eman’s, the costumes still weren’t finished. Artemisia’s burgundy one will have to come with Eman to London & I’ll pick it up from her. But the others should be finished later tonight & delivered to the hotel (they were!).
Eman used Artemisia as a tailor’s dummy/model for a very cute baladi dress, with all lace-ups at the side, in pink holographic shiny.
When I was trying on my galabiya, the scarves weren’t floral after all (which is something of a disappointment, but not too badly. I can always make something floral myself, now that I’ve got the idea in my head.) but blue and black & sliver stripes, which is very folky looking, so it fits well with my style. When the nice hegabbed girl who was doing the fitting asked me how I’d wear the mandeel, she indicated a knot at the nape of my neck, or at the side of my head. I took it and did a Hilal-ish wrap, where the knot goes on the top of the head which covered my hair completely, and she smiled and seemed generally approving!
Then back to the Hotel for a shower and titivate, in readiness for Yasmina’s party. She lives out past Giza & her flat is up on the 6th or 7th floor, with no lift! But the view from her balcony, of the two big pyramids (I couldn’t see the smaller one, just Khefren & Cheops) is amazing!
I wasn’t sure what to expect. There were musicians & singers. I recognised the accordeon player, because he was playing the night before, in the orchestra for Bashir. He was very smiley. He remembered me too. The tabla player was young & cute, and Sayed was there playing Tura. His English is no better! He was as fun as he always is.
There were various "acts" throughout the evening. Yasmina danced “Ala Rimsh Ayuna”. A couple of Nubian lads did some Nubian (well, duh!). It was interesting to see Nubian being done in a modern style, as opposed to the Reda Folklore style. They were still doing the limpy step and aeroplanes and the classic Nubian stuff, but they were doing it much more funkily, and bringing in lots of pops and locks and "street" stuff. I do love Nubian music. It always sounds happy. Then there was an Alexandrian/Baboutiya/Melaya piece. That was a lot more Folklore Troupe style.And she didn't do much with the Melaya, just waft it about a bit, no wrap, no tricks. Then there were the Sa'aidi boys, in galabiyas with big sticks. The girl who'd done the melaya piece and another girl joined them and they led some dancing. I managed to get one of the boys to lend me his stick (with Artemisia's help) & I had a bit of a go.
For me, though, the delight of the evening was Hebba, Yasmina's niece, who is a complete darling. She's only 13, but her dancing has complete assurance and is a joy to watch. She understands the music so deeply, and is so expressive. She was constantly interacting with her audience, and was *so* engaging. I've no idea if she would ever perform in public, I don't know if that's permitted to her. But if she doesn't it's a sad waste of talent.
I chatted with Lorna Gow, about her life as a dancer in Cairo, and about her blog. I sent S a picture of the pyramids.
I have to say, the party wasn't an entirely comfortable thing for me. It was a fantastic experience, but I spent much of the time keeping well out of someone's way (me & my big mouth). |
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| Cairo Diary Day 7 - Dina! |
[2nd April 2008|02:15 pm] |
Today was the Prova at Hannan's and everyone else picking up their costumes. My Cavalli dress is made up and fitted, and once it's been beaded, it will be shipped to me. I've given them my work address, so that there'll be somebody to sign for it. It's going to be fabulous. The shape is great. The left leg is pretty bare-naked, but in a good way!
The Mahmouds were feeding us lunch, which was a mahoosive picnic on the floor of the studio ( I can't believe they allowed food in a roomfull of high end costumes!) I'm not a big one for fish/seafood but we had a delicious meal of fish, rice, bread, baba ganoush, salad, pickes, etc etc. The fish was from the river not the sea, but I didn't try to establish what kind of fish it was. It was marinaded and grilled, and it was hugely delicious.
( More under the cut, including an outrageous costume aand Dina ) |
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| Cairo Diary Day 5 - Class Day |
[1st April 2008|12:20 pm] |
I got a bit of a shock this morning, coming back to my room after breakfast. The bloke in the room next to mine had left his door open & was wandering around in nothing but his undercrackers. And it wasn’t a pretty sight, let me assure you!
At breakfast, I was was watching Melodia Arabia (music video channel) and there was quite a cool video clip of a girl singer. I asked the waiter her name & was told Dominique. Then there was another video featuring someone who looked incredibly like Khaled. I have since checked them both out on Youtube.
( Both vids under the cut )
I went to the bank all by myself, like the brave little soldier I am (teehee!) and got a taste of the Egyptian Banking Experience. I got given a number by the security man, just like being at the deli counter at Sainsbury’s. I then waited a good ten minutes, while nothing much seemed to be happening at all, and people who came into the bank after me who had no number got served, and then eventually my number got called. I now have loads of big money, not so much little.
It was dance class day. The class with Randa was good. All Technique & I felt the benefit of having done other workshops with her before. She remembered me, and now knows my name! I may have to make my way up to the Midlands event Maria’s putting on. I’m feeling the Randa Love again!
The class with Ghazafy- I wasn’t so taken with. I liked his warm up, which was fairly straightforward Follow Me simple choreography, not too fast. But then he went on to teach a Reda style choreo- all footwork. He was teaching it too fast for me. I need things in way smaller chunks... I watched and took some notes, of elements I liked. But I wasn’t going to write it all down verbatim. But the others enjoyed it enormously, so don't take my word as Gospel on this, it's just my personal opinion.
We’re trying to get a private lesson with Randa booked. I hope we can do it.
After Class, onto Eman’s atelier, except that Eman herself wasn’t there. Hoda was. I sent her good wishes from M, and showed her the picture of the baby. I’ve ordered a royal blue baladi galabiya, which I should be able to bring home with me. It’s the Hannan that will take a while longer and may have to be shipped. When I asked Hoda how much, she didn’t want to answer because it’s Eman’s business, but she said "It’s no problem, you are friend of Kay, and you are friend of us..." That was nice!
Tonight was Kushari night. A group of us went out for a meal & drink in a local café. It was just shawerma & kushari, and to be honest, not the best of either that I've tasted. But it was an interesting experience. They even offered us a dominoes board. |
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| Cairo Diary Day 3 - Shopping! |
[31st March 2008|12:07 pm] |
First, a view of the Nile.
We spent today shopping. First at Madam Hekmat’s and then (and at considerably greater length) at Hannan Mahmoud’s.
Madam Hekmat is a tiny weeny woman. There we were, 13 of us, plus Madam H & her helpers, in this tiny room, with 3 sides of the room costumes, and one side mirror. It was utter pandemonium. How anybody managed to a) find anything or b) try anything on, is beyond me. But we did. There were a few nice things there, but it was essentially not for us big girls.
Except... The first thing I’d noticed, when I walked into that room had been a flash of bright pink, really bright, cerise, fuck me pink. And no-one was looiking at it, so I made my way over there and took a look. It had my name on it. It was *so* mine! It was a trouser suit. I’d said from the off I wanted some trousers. This was not only trousers, but it was screaming pink trousers, which (apart from the waistband elastic being a little oversnug round the widest part of my hips) fit me.They even come up higher than my rather horrid gut. They’re a bit long, but they’re being taken up and the embroidery/beading is also being moved up.
The bra, now that was a different matter. They’re having to make me a new one, because I am stonkingly enormous in the chestal department. Deary me, the bra they made me try on for size was big enough to have a party in and save on the marquee hire. That’s quite distressing, but that’s the price I have to pay for having magnificent breasts. I am not complaining really.
So that was item 1 ticked off the list- trouser suit. I’m going tomorrow for the fitting, the Prova.
I think I’m the only one who bought there. There was a lot of stuff that even if it was in my size I wouldnt look at twice. But there was also a fair bit of stuff that I would look at again if it were in my size, and if it were less of a scrum.
On to Hannan’s.
This was way more shoppy. Admittedly again, much of the stuff was not for the big girls, but it’s beautiful. She didn’t have so many dresses out, but after a while, she got out the sack full of XL costumes. As each one came out, I loved them more and more. Then again, there was “the One” (no, no, not Steph!). The one costume that had my name on it. It didn’t actually fit me at all, when I tried it on, but it was nevertheless the one I had to have. So Hannan is making it for me. It’s a black/white animal print, I’m calling it snow leopard, because I’m not sure what animal it is, and I’d rather not call it Cow-Print, which is what artemisia_danst was calling it! Noella was calling it my Cavalli dress, which is rather nicer.
Hannan’s beading is just fabulous and she uses great fabrics. She’s got an amazing new line coming out for the Ahlan Wa Sahlan Festival. We got a sneak preview and some of the girls bought them. They’re decorated with diamanté and they are well special. Hannan’s detailing is superb. She’s desperately trying to keep them from being knocked off, of course. They are fabulous & beautiful.
In the evening we ate at Abou el Sid, on Zamalek, which was very good. |
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| Cairo Diary Day 2- Still not much going on |
[31st March 2008|10:48 am] |
I went for a wander up 26th July Street. Lots of shoe shops and scarf shops and clothes shops. Mine was the only white face on the street, so I think we can safely say this isn’t a tourist trap. It’s a bugger not having my suitcase, as it’s got all my chargers (and adaptor plugs) in it.
I’m still not sure about crossing the roads here. So far I seem to have done it by a sort of osmosis. A bit like keeping dry in the rain- you make youself thin & walk in between the raindrops.
So... we had a meeting with Yasmina & Nibel, to talk about excursions and so on. We should get to see Outi and Randa and Dina. I’m thinking strongly of not doing the sight-seeing. I’ve been to the Pyramids. I don’t want to see Ramsis at Memphis, in case he’s not as lovely as I remember.
Dinner at Felfella, which was rather delicious kushari (though some of the others weren’t too impressed). I can’t believe someone was arguing over cover charges and service charges. We’d just had a lovely meal, with drinks and coffee, (well I did) and all for a fiver. In London, you’d be hard pressed to buy a sandwich for less. I went out for shay with Karolien & Robbie, who’s going back to Belgium tomorrow, leaving K on this holiday.
I’m glad I’ve got my luggage back. In under 24 hours. Now that I’m able to recharge my phone I seem to be able to check my email and send pictures again. |
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| Cairo Diary Day 1- travelling, you might want to skip this one... |
[30th March 2008|04:18 pm] |
I got out of the house incredibly early, all packed & calm. I got to Heathrow far too early an hour, even two hours before I needed, but I'd rather that than too late! It's blimmin' boring killing two hours at an airport on your own. Oh well, I bought "Rome Burning" so at least I have plenty of reading material.
I'm so looking forward to this trip. It's going to be wonderful to be in Cairo again. I just wish it wasn't all happening just as I've met S, but I reckon it will be OK.
And after all that earliness, the plane got delayed. The plane we should have been flying to Frankfurt in got struck by lightning, so it was hors de combat. I got moved onto a later Frankfurt flight, but it got me there in time for the connection to Cairo, despite me thinking otherwise. They held the Cairo plane up a little to make sure we could get it.
We arrived on time, some time after 3am. As I suspected, because the flights got changed, Lufthansa have mislaid my suitcase. Fortunately, as a result of my previous Cairo flying experiences, I always have my night things and spare knickers in my hand luggage. But my trips to Cairo do seem to be cursed in some way.
The taxi driver was taking the piss, charged me far too much, but I was too tired to haggle properly, it was after 4.30 in the morning & I'd been up early. The hotel didn't seem to know I was coming, but never mind. I'm in bed now, and although I'm knackered I don't feel sleep coming on yet. I've moved my eternity ring to my left hand, as a small deterrent. It feels weird to have a ring on that finger after so long! Also weird not to have one on my right hand as usual.
It's good to be back in Cairo. I recognised the architecture of Masr el Gedida, as I was driven through it. I texted my Egyptian friend M, "My heart is home". |
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| Home sweet home |
[29th March 2008|10:51 pm] |
I'm back from Cairo, and knackered. I have 56 pages of handwritten diary to load here. This will not happen quickly. Also I'll be editing some of the stuff out, because it's boring or all about a new potential man, or could get me into trouble (may have to flock some of it!).
I will try to plough through my flist tonight, before I collapse into bed.
But a quick summary- shopping & shows very successful. Three new costumes, four new pairs of shoes, khul-khal, hip scarves, a cute little hat, big baladi earrings. Joanna, Randa, Dina.
Edited to add- and a sleazy nightclub! |
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| Rest Time |
[20th March 2008|12:00 pm] |
The teaching is finished now till mid April. I had one student last night saying I should keep on teaching through the holidays. I gave her a very filthy look! It's ok for them, they do it for one session a week, and a lot of them don't turn up to every class. Me, I have five classes a week, and I *have* to turn up for them! I need breaks.
One more sleep till Cairo. I need to check with Kay whether to keep my sterling, or change to USDs or €s. I need to do a last bit of shopping for summery tops. I need to visit my Mum tonight, because otherwise she'll think that I haven't visited her for months, in the week that I'm away. I need to print out all the emails about this holiday, and my e-ticket. I need to check my travel plugs to see if they are OK for Egypt or whether I need to buy another one. The list of things to do seems endless, and there's only 24 hours left.
I will be glad when I'm in the train to Heathrow tomorrow and there's nothing else I can do. At that point, I just need my passport, ticket, money & housekeys to get back in; anything else, I can get when I'm there... |
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| What to wear, what to wear? |
[10th March 2008|03:52 pm] |
Cairo temperature is currently in the mid 20s celsius. That's a nice moderate summer temperature for us Brits. However, my nice moderate summer clothing is, on the whole, sleeveless and short skirted and I would really prefer not to be flaunting my upper arms/knees and encouraging the helpless male population of Cairo to evil thoughts, poor weak souls that they are...
I may have to go out and buy new clothes. Oh dear, how sad, never mind...
I may also have forgotten where I stashed my sunglasses and need to acquire new ones. Oh dear, how sad, never mind...
And I am feeling ready to wear fab new earrings. So I may need some of those too. Oh dear, how sad, never mind...
On the topic of earrings, I tried some of the prettier studs at the weekend. There is one pair of pale pink daisy-shaped ones, which are very pretty but have brought me to the realisation that I have lop-sided earlobes. My right earlobe is much smaller and flimsier than my left.
Maybe I was a rugby player or a bare-knuckle boxer in a former life. It would have had to have been before my last former life, which was, of course, as the other Beatrice Curtis, the obscure Hollywood bit-part actress, who died nine months before I was born. |
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